The Jim Thompson Thai House
Exterior of the Jim Thompson House.
The Thai houses that Jim Thompson collected in the 1960's get mentioned prominently in most guide books, but the museum doesn't get many visitors. It is rather off the beaten track, but still worth a visit.
Jim Thompson was an American who first came to Thailand as part of the OSS (the military precursor of the CIA) towards the end of World War II. After the war and upon leaving the service, he decided to return to Thailand. He saw the international potential of the almost forgotten cottage industry of silk weaving, and is largely credited with reviving the lost art.
Thompson's appreciation of things Thai extended to all of the arts and architecture. Once he had made his "fortune" he began the construction of his house. The collection of six buildings represent some of the best of traditional Thai architecture. Many of the houses were at least two centuries old when he acquired them. While this would be an outrageously expensive exercise today, we have to remember that this was the 1950's, when old was definitely out of fashion and everybody wanted something modern. People were probably more than happy to have this silly American pay them to cart off what they thought of as "junk" at the time.
The gardens of the Jim Thompson House.
The houses are reconstructed and put together in a very traditional fashion, although most of the modern conveniences such as electricity and indoor plumbing have been incorporated. One other curious change Thompson made was to turn the walls "inside-out". Thai houses traditionally had a board-and-batten exterior that he thought was 'wasted' on the outside, so he put the patterned walls on the inside.
The house quickly became known around town, and was ultimately opened to the public even before Thompson's "mysterious" disappearance while visiting friends in the Malaysian Cameron Highlands.
Jim Thompson House Hours & Admission
Although open to the public, the house is not open to tour groups, which is one of the reasons more people don't visit. The house is also at the end of a longish alley (soi) and so not well know by taxi drivers either. Fortunately, the Skytrain system makes it easier for people to enjoy this little gem. Alighting at the "National Stadium" station will put you right at the mouth of the soi leading to the house. Whilst you can wander through the gardens for free, tours of the house itself are guided only and cost 100 Baht (2.66 USD) for adults and 50 Baht (1.33 USD) for students. The house is open every day from 9:00 to 17:00, but note that the last tour starts at 16:30. You can find out more about the Jim Thompson House at their web site.
In addition to the original Thai house, the compound now also includes, naturally, an outlet of the Jim Thompson Thai Silk company, a restaurant, and exhibition space.