Before Angkor Wat was built, before the Khmer capital was was moved to the area around Phnom Bakeng, the center of the kingdom was located around the present-day village of Roluos, about 12 kilometers (7 1/2 miles) from Seam Reap. A small group of three temples marks the site of the old capital, Hariharalaya. The temples were all built some time in the ninth century, not long before the capital was moved to around Angkor.

The three temples that can be visited are:

Preah Ko

Preah Ko is the earliest temple still existing of the Roluos group, one of the first seats of the Khmer empire. The structure was built by king Indravarman I as a funerary temple for the king's parents, maternal grandparent and king Jayavarman II.

The central sanctuary consists of six towers of various sizes rising from a relatively low stone base. Although much smaller, the basic structure is highly reminiscent of the Hindu temple complex of central Java, the Prambanan . In fact, Jayavarman II appears to have spent some time in the court of the great kings of Java who built the Prambanan. Whether as a 'guest' or a hostage isn't clear.

While badly decayed, there are still several fine details that can be discerned at Preah Ko. In front of the central sanctuary platform are three statues of bulls - nandi the white bull and mount of Shiva. The Khmer word for 'bull' - ko - gives the temple its name. Beside the doors into each of the tower shrines are finely detailed guardians in various poses.

Bakong

Bakong is the most impressive temple of the Roluos Group, and effectively the first temple mountain of Khmer art. It was started around the year 881 and also marks one of the earliest uses of stone instead of brick for the main structures. Like the temples that followed it for much of the next 400 years, the Bakong consists of a moat enclosing an east-facing rectangular complex, at the center of which is a multi-tiered central sanctuary. The sanctuary is surrounded by several towers, which were probably memorials for close members of the royal court.

The central sanctuary sits at the top of five widely spaced tiers, making is visible from anywhere in the temple. The present tower toping the stone mountain was probably built much later, around the twelfth century, which explains why its shape is different than the other towers around the base. The original structure may have been made of wood.

Lolei

This small temple was once located in the middle of a large man-made lake (baray). The carvings and inscriptions are thought to be the best of the Roluos group.

Although removed from the main Angkor Archaeological Park, you must still posses a valid Angkor admission pass to visit the temples of the Roluos group.